The last month has been a relief from constant camping and travel.   I'm settling in to life in Royal, Alabama and keeping busy with projects arouns the property.  The addition of a solar heater built from collected beer cans helps offset heat during the cool days.  My neighbor lent me their Sun Oven and I've delighted in roasts, hot veggies and baked bread using the power of the sun.   Utilizing the preexisting fenced garden space, I cleared the area and cultivated a winter garden.   There have been many small projects and activities keeping me occupied but I'll remain pretty quiet while I'm resting and relaxing in the country.

My last day of travel!  I was up and surveyed the foggy monotone landscape before me. The metal roof of the flea market and various terraced parking aprons flowed down to Hwy 278. I made some coffee and oatmeal while packing the bike and set off into the warm and humid morning air.  The miles slid away as I worked my way west on Hwy 132 past small working farms and woodlands butting up to the southern remnants of the Appalachian mountains.  In Onenonta, the nearest town, I stopped to check out the library and pick up some food at the local hometown grocery store. This town seems to have the basic necessities and enough businesses to offer the odd bite to eat. 14 miles was all that remained as I pedaled north on 75 with the whir of rush hour traffic.  Except for the first few miles on 75, the remaining back roads were scenic and pleasant to ride.  I'll be looking forward to the day trips in this area. The roads became more familiar and I followed the landmarks that guided me to the gray forest and gravel road in this, the end of fall.  I'm happy to finally arrive and know what I'm capable of on a bicycle too.

The morning woke with the usual sound of birds and squirrels bouncing in the leaves.  Dang it was early! oh...it's the mixture of daylight saving's time and the EST making the sun rise before 6.  The Chief Ladiga trail is nearly empty except for a few barking dogs who chase as I pass.  The scenery and lack of vehicles on the trail makes for a wonderful and relaxing ride.  In Piedmont, I choose to keep riding the trail instead of getting on hwy 278. It may require an additional 10 miles but the peacefulness and frequent trailside picnic areas are worth the detour. Imagine if there was a cross country bicycle trail like this? I'd ride it.


The sun burned away the clouds and the afternoon warmed into the 70s.  Arriving in Gadsden, I found Broad St marked off by Police and Fire for a Veteran's Day parade. Having plenty of time to kill, I lounged around the shady spots and talked with a few locals while the high school  marching bands warmed up around the corner.  The town is near Anniston Military Depot and has a large military presence so the parade was well represented.  The JROTC led the parade followed by marching bands and floats. It was apparent that certain schools had predominantly one racial makeup as I watched the nearly all black band pass, followed by a nearly all white band.  In Alabama, many people do still live on opposite sides of the tracks.  Large armored military vehicles,  some alarmingly owned by the police, chugged past. The remaining WW-II veterans in their decorated Class-A uniform waved and smiled on floats decorated with American flags. Somehow in the event and walking around the streets, my American flag went missing from the bicycle. At least I know it was put to good use!

The day grew short and shadows long as I turned west onto 278, a busy highway with much traffic and narrow shoulders. Ahead of me lay a 600 ft climb outside of Attalla which I chose to tackle this evening.  It was a bear but I made it up on the mountain and soon found a grove of pine behind a closed Flea Market in which to camp. A quiet night and warm.

After a wonderful stay with my sister's family down in GA, I set out with a repaired bicycle and new sets of tubes.  I remained on back roads before joining up with the Silver Comet Trail in Dallas, GA.  The former railbed has been converted into a  bicycle trail from Atlanta to Anniston, AL.  I love bicycle trails for the lack of traffic, many picnic stops and scenery. The day flew by as the drizzle came down and then cleared as fog.  The weather was warm and I was riding through Fall all over again. Chasing the seasons...

I rested easily last night and awoke to the sound of rain and pine needles hitting the fly.  Nearby the din of heavy trucks on 411 carried through the pines. A freight train passed in a thundering roar behind me every 45 minutes, something I had strangely grown accustomed to sleeping through.  My plan was to wait out the remains of the hurricane which was now dumping rain on the southeast.  I lay in the hammock through the morning being tossed about by the wind and swaying pine trees, writing in my journal and reading to pass the time. By afternoon it was finally clearing and some prodding by my sister urged me to finish the last 45 miles. To my surprise the rear tire was holding air and I was soon on my way biking each mile closer to a warm home...a known destination.   For someone always on the road there's a known comfort in these places of rest and reapect.  Just after crossing through Cartersville,  I noticed my rear tire was low and checked to find it nearly flat. Another flat! grrr.  Reinflated with the pump it held enough air to get me up to a gas station where I discovered the leak in the tube only after rising off and up the road hearing the 95 psi hiss through the tire with each revolution.   Patched,  it seemed to be holding air and I figured I should make good speed south  on 61.  The rain began in earnest along with gusts from the east which nearly blew me off the road.  The shoulder was often lacking and never more than a foot wide as I climbed the steep hills and bombed down the hills at 35 and up. As long as the tire held air, I could make it there the last few miles...15...10...5. I started seeing familiar businesses and landmarks and then found my way to my sister's quiet rural street and turned up the long gravel driveway and soon arrived in the haven of my sister's home and shelter from the storm. I was soaking wet and she gave me a towel and pointed me to the shower.  Seeing my nephew again is a blast and he's grown so much since last spring.  Chicken fried steak , potatoes and green beans for dinner was just the home cooking I needed after these last few days of riding. Time to rest a bit ...

I'm pushing south to make it closer to GA before the big storm rolls through Mon- Wed.  It's been non-stop riding and some long days in the saddle but I'm making progress.  Tomorrow should see the Georgia crossing and choosing a place to hunker down for the next few days. I don't melt but I hate cycling in the rain/poor visibility.
oops. a fox just ran past my camp.

I cannot thank Don and Tracy enough for their hospitality and wonderful conversation during the course of my short visit.  Whenever I get a blog comment,  there's a good chance it's from them and I'm happy they enjoy my pictures and stories.   The food was phenomenal and the morning breakfast omlett and chicken fried venison steak was no exception.  I was fueled up with a belly full and the promising warm and clear weather urged me to knock out the miles.  I climbed over the twisting dirt mountain road to an elevation of 3200 ft.  Chipmunk, groundhog, squirrel, turkeys and a low flying hawk ahead of me were frequent along the rural route.  As the afternoon wore on, I passed through Saltville, sat capital of the Confederacy and took a rest at the recreation salt kettles.  The hills never seemed to end and my legs sure felt the strain as the sun turned into my eyes and the shadowy areas grew cool and blue. Finally, I reached the I-81 corridor and turned into Hwy 11 in the direction of Tennessee.   I was soon passing through Abingdon and nearing 70 mi, looking for a place to rest my legs.  Halfway to Bristol,  an abandoned drive-in theater off the highway caught my attention.   The Moonlight Theatre was a bit eerie in its abandoned state as the sun set but I doubted it would see any traffic overnight and spread out my sleeping bag on the pavement beneath the screen.

It was a sunny and comfortable fall day in the mountains.  The old road up Wolf Creek has almost no traffic and I enjoyed the slow pace and beauty of the valley.  A few barking dogs protecting their properties gave me slight pause for concern but they were all harmless.  Let's hope that remains true on my travels south.   Toward the day's end, I found myself near Rocky Gap and noticed the abandoned bridge would make a fine place to camp for the night.  I brewed a cup of coffee and watched the sun set before settling in to my sleeping bag and a good book for the night (Follow the River).

It was a sunny and comfortable fall day in the mountains.  The old road up Wolf Creek has almost no traffic and I enjoyed the slow pace and beauty of the valley.  A few barking dogs protecting their properties gave me slight pause for concern but they were all harmless.  Let's hope that remains true on my travels south.   Toward the day's end, I found myself near Rocky Gap and noticed the abandoned bridge would make a fine place to camp for the night.  I brewed a cup of coffee and watched the sun set before settling in to my sleeping bag and a good book for the night (Follow the River).

As the day grew late, I found a perfect trail toward the Appalachian Trail to camp on.  It climbed up to the old Pearisburg Cemetery but was a beautifully wooded and flat trail I thought would have little traffic overnight.  After dark, I set up my pad and bag directly on the path toward the end by the cemetery, undeterred by the oddness of my choice location and sure folks wouldn't be coming up to a cemetery at night...right? An hour after dozing off, I heard some rustling and noticed the brilliance of headlamps floating through the trees toward me. My first thought: BUSTED.  When they grew closer I turned on my red headlamp and said "Good evening".  A shriek sounded from the floating lights and they stopped moving. "Hello?" a hesitant male voice sounded.   I approached and introduced myself to the startled teenagers who, living in an Appalachian Trail town, were used to bearded vagrants passing through. I suppose that's what I am right now?  After some chit-chat they went off to do whatever teens do in cemeteries at night and I laid back down to rest.

In the morning I felt like a zombie awakening from the earth. Fortunately the coffee, sipped in the sunny morning light, made me feel alive.  Later I'd make some oatmeal then cycle down to Narrows, VA down the New River.  I spent the day lounging near the historic duck pond and charging my phone in the adjacent library.   Around 4:30, I overheard talk about a parade and learned the high school homecoming was that evening. The police and fire were preparing to close down streets and citizens lining up along Main St.  The parade was a small town hit and I collected a bit of candy tossed out by the floats, rationalizing it as fuel for the road ahead. Free food always works for me.  My highlight was the small marching band playing "Rocky Top" on this normally quiet Appalachian street.

After the parade I grabbed a quick canned food and retired to Camp Success along the New River.  The last rays of sun glowed brightly on the fall leaves downriver before sinking beyond the mountain by 6pm. The cool blue light of dusk fell over the river front as the Norfolk & Western coal train blared it's horn heading my way. Camping along the roads and railroads, I always carry ear plugs it just drowns out the sound of the river.

A brief rain fell overnight but by morning the rain fly was dry for packing. What wasn't dry was my nose and sinuses...darn I knew I was getting sick.   I filled my belly with oatmeal despite my lack of hunger and pushed on to another morning of cycling.  My lungs felt as if they weren't getting all the oxygen and phlegm came up often as my body exercised and perspired.  Not my finest morning or best pace but this is the trip, this is real life and sometimes I get sick.   Knowing I had to keep fed and energized, I pulled in to the Swinging Bridge Restaurant in Paint Bank, VA for breakfast.  I couldn't really taste my food well but the texture was nice.  Stuffed with eggs, potatoes and biscuits I paid the bill and went back out into the cool morning air.  A headwind had begun blowing down the valley impeding my progress.  It was a strong fall breeze tossing leaves into the road and forcing me into the lowest gear to keep struggling forward. I kept on climbing.  The road crossed into WV yet no sign showed it, only a line in the asphalt and different roadsigns.  The Potts Creek Railroad once climbed up this grade so it wasn't too steep, just a gradual pull all day long without a descent. The last 5 miles of road before crossing into VA again is an uphill slog to 2800ft along a meandering highway. At the crest I was quite tired and knew I couldn't push my body too hard if I wanted to improve.  The following 5 miles was all down hill and I enjoyed the breeze and freewheeeling.  Down at the Glen Alton turnoff on Big Stony Creek, I found a campsite and called it quits early at 2:30pm.  I knew this spot was fine for camp in the NF and that my body would thank me for the soup, tea and rest in the hammock.  Napping and reading books as the sun sank low then turned in for sleep feeling as though my health was on the improved course forward. Slept better overnight too with less coughing.

While bathing naked in the frigid creek water, I noticed a crawfish the size of my hand walking close inspecting my toes.  Nope!  I'd later feed them the last of my noodles from dinner and watch them gather them into their mouths with the many small arms.  Love these baby lobsters.

I awoke in the morning to dew dripping from the leaves above.  While packing the bike I noticed my rear tire was flat! Damn.  To top it off I was feeling the effects or a cold I had been fighting and was in poor spirits.  The sky was cloudy and gray to fit my mood as I removed the tube and tried but was unable to find a leak.  I'd reinstall it and keep adding air each day until I was at a rest point and could properly diagnose it with a bucket of water.

Back on Hwy 42, I climbed up the rail grade finally reaching Hwy 60 and soon on to Clifton Forge.  After restocking on bananas and protein bars, I pushed on through the old railroad town along the Jackson River toward Covington.   Island Ford Cave materialized on the roadside and gave a perfect cool resting place for the morning snack.   Moving on to Covington, I had a chicken sandwich and ice cream cone then refilled my water bottles before heading south on Hwy 18.

The afternoon ride up Potts Creek was gorgeous in weather and fall colors.  The golden and crimson foliage offset by the blue sky above and darkness of the creek was a pallet for any artist. At the first forest road I saw, I turned to climb high above Potts Creek where I setup alongside the gravel path. The sun set in the distant treeline and caught the sky in a hue of pink clouds and baby blue dimming to black.

Parting with friends is always bittersweet but the road calls loudly to this traveller. Out on Hwy 33, I stopped briefly for snacks and fruit at Food Lion then turned onto Old 33 through McGaheysville, Pineville Rd and down Cross Keys Rd to Weyers Cave.  The high was only 58F all day with a cloud layer that spit precipitation occasionally.  A special nod to Sydney Gap Rd for making me take a break on the steep hill. I've got to remind myself that I've got all day  - take it easy!

I arrived at Antonio and Marion's cabin on the Middle River to find them active in projects on this warming Saturday afternoon.  Marion's home made meal of meat loaf, baked muffins and apple pie was phenomenal and locally sourced.  I didn't mean to offend so naturally I helped myself to seconds.  With a full belly, I finally climbed into the comfortable loft bedroom and promptly fell fast asleep.

I had the fortune of joining up with many of my dual sport riding buddies at Loftus' river front property for three days.  The company of friends, new and old as well as the dogs and cat nearby was an enjoyable and relaxing time.   The keg was tapped but I found myself enjoying the Crazy Fox Coffee more than the IPA.  Wide sycamore leaves rained from the canopy and the foliage on the far bank began to turn flush with the colors of fall.  We grilled out, camped in the meadow and enjoyed the passing thunder storm in the canopy of the garage.  By Saturday morning, I was eyeing the forecast and set off to make good time south whole the weather was comfortable and dry.

After a memorable visit with Warren and Betty in Cross Keys and some necessary wrenching on the bicycle, I packed up and set off into the warm morning sunlight.  The old familiar roads around Cross Keys and the McGaheysville area came back to me as I wound north east toward Elkton.  The ride was short but the enjoyment of a downhill day along some of the most beautiful rural scenery made it quite enjoyable.   I ended the day at Loftus' cabin down on the South Fork of the Shenandoah River.

Warren fixed a fine breakfast omelet before we headed to hburg for a few errands. I picked up the new sprocket, stopped in for some Crazy Fox Coffee http://www.crazyfoxcoffee.com and visited the old county office building where I once worked.  The afternoon was spent wrenching , working on the CB and enjoying the beautiful weather.   Tomorrow..we ride!

My buddy Mike L. suggested I stop in to SBC in Hburg to get any parts.  Some of the hills I've climbed led me to downsize the smaller front chainring from a 40 to a 38.  I checked and the helpful staff sized up my bike and ordered me a new Sprocket which arrived by the following day.  Now installed, it feels geared a bit better for climbing with my heavy load.  Thanks SBC!

The day warmed quickly as I descended toward Rt.11 and began riding south down the Shenandoah.  Traffic gave me enough space and the bike felt good except for a creaking crank.  My first stop was at a tire shop north of Mt. Jackson where I borrowed a 14mm socket to torque down the loose crank nut.  The small valley towns appeared along the undulating two lane highway allowing nice breaks to snack, rehydrate and read up on local civil war engagements.   Taking my time throughout the day, I knocked out the miles and kept the sunscreen slathered.  A stop at my favorite grocery store, SharpShopper further filled my food sack to the point where it's more weight than I'd like.  By the days end, I huffed and puffed my way up Pleasant Valley to Cross Keys where Warren and Betty greeted me with a cold beer and wild boar ribs (delicious!).  The hot tub never felt better than after these 50 miles.

Hurricane Joaquin threatened to batter the Shenandoah Valley but only brought inches of rain and a day or two of light winds.  Unfortunately the rain came too late for most farmers as it's nearing the end of harvest season.  Outside the ducks and chickens don't seem to mind the chilly fall temperature in the 40's and moist climate.

My friends Mike and Holly were kind enough to put me up for Thr-Sun while the weather worsened, leveled out and improved.   Holly's cooking and baking filled the house with the rich aroma of fall; pumpkin pie,  white lightning chili, fluffy rolls, vegetable filled quiche and roasted squash from the garden.  When asked about her recipes, I was surprised to learn that many of the flavorful ingredients were actually freeze-dried and came from her company
Thrive.  Ripened,  healthy and whole ingredients are available in many quantities and make the perfect food for backpackers, campers or those wanting to stock up for an emergency event.  Good luck staying away from the Mountain Man Trail Mix of crunchy peas, corn kernels, cheese and sausage crumbles.

On Sunday afternoon,  the sky finally quit spitting and I rode 7 mi over to Swover Creek Farm Brewery to meet my friend Mike.  The personable and down to earth owner and tasting room in a 100 year old farm building makes this place that much more appealing. I'd suggest their Coffee Stout brewed with cold press espresso from the roasters down the road.  Definitely worth a visit.

When I awoke, the sound of rain outside did little to encourage me out of bed.  Checking the weather while eating my morning cup of oatmeal, I realized there was no good window to leave today but it had to be done.  After a cup of coffee and some packing, I locked up my buddy's house and began spinning south down Rt 11.  A dreary cold mist collected in my beard, the forming droplets falling to my shorts or finding their way onto my lips.  The shoulder was sufficiently wide for cycling and I made good time down the Valley Pike past many roadside markers for the Battle of Cedar Creek and notable structures.  I took many rests along the way knowing I had all day to bike 30 mi.  At the Burger King in Strasburg where I stopped for OJ and some french toast sticks,  I met Mr. Keller, an 88 year old WW-II veteran. Having an opportunity to hear his stories about the cramped and dangerous transport ships, guarding the SS soldiers and travelling through Europe was a true gift.  There aren't many left of his generation and I consider it a valuable experience to stop and interact with those remaining. 30 minutes went by with me eyeing the temporary break in weather so I had to pry myself away to take advantage of it.

Heading down the back roads and climbing over 1000 feet, my legs began to protest and the rain proceeded to fall.  An abandoned overgrown trailer rusting in a hollow looked like a reasonable place to keep dry so I pushed the bike around back and made a cup of coffee inside.   It was damp and musty but the interesting collection of scrapbooks and dated camping guidebooks provided me with an hour or more of entertainment as I waited for the sky to clear.  By late afternoon, I pedaled up the gravel road to the home of my friends Michael and Holly who nourished me with burgers, pasta and fresh vegetables, filled my mind with warm conversation and pointed me to the shower and bedroom.  It is wonderful to be welcomed and I know that one day I will be in the position to reciprocate.