The rollicking journey to Francois was probably a 2/10 as far as the North Atlantic goes but I could feel it in my head and belly by the time the coast appeared out the open porthole. The town of approximately 100 residents is a strong community who, at the most recent resettlement vote, cast only 37% for resettlement. In a place where you rely on your neighbors for safety, friendship and care, the town is closer than most I've explored. A hat worn by an elder resident at the dock read "Fransway", that's just how they pronounce it here. Along the far flung out ports, there exists an endearing dialect cultivated out of their isolation and community so that many outsiders would wonder exactly what was said. I'll admit I had some trouble at times understanding a few commands from the ship's crew when loading my bike or paying for my modest fair. Most of the crew of the MV Marine Voyager was from Francois, and would now be welcomed home for the evening. A flier on the cork bulletin board advertised "Francois Days" with many events for the kids and a few evening parties, dances and friendly community competitions. Colorful pendant banners hung throughout the town as I grabbed my camping gear and disembarked for the night. The ship spends the night here then continues on to Grey River and Burgeo in the morning. With bag in hand, I climbed the steep wooden boardwalk into town, admiring the colorful homes and creative engineering and architecture. Although sheltered from the harshness of the sea, this town no doubt sees some terrible winds, rain and ice in the winter. Nearing the school, I ask a woman where I could pitch a tent for the night and she looked at me like I was crazy. I briefly explained my trip and how I came to be in Francois when she suggested I head over to Miss Fudge's Boarding House. It was not my intention to pay for a spot this evening but her suggestion and gaze provoked me down the path and to knock on the front door. A matronly woman with caring rosy face opened the door and I explained I was looking for a place to spend the evening. The smell of a home-cooked meal wafted from the kitchen as she led me in to my bedroom in her small but clean and well appointed home. Seated at the kitchen table with some other travelers from the ship, she served me a meal of salt pork, potatoes, dressing and gravy and a side of potatoes. Her peach cobbler dessert and cup of tea hit the spot after having just a nibble of crackers and a granola bar for lunch. After the meal, I explored the many walkways through the town, waving at the curious faces in windows and snapping many photos of this isolated and wonderful place. As the darkness of evening neared, I noticed folks heading in the direction of the community hall for the evening's games. 75 people had gathered in the small room and I ordered a light beer from the bar tender and took my seat as a fly on the wall. Loose family teams played many games and small competitions with each other such as putting on a jumpsuit in a sleeping bag, tossing cheese curls onto a shaving cream covered head, putting on a diaper and feeding beer through a baby bottle and everyone's favorite, the beer chugging competition. Watching the town "let loose" and laugh at each other was a great way to break the ice and join in to their flavor of community. Afterward, I was told there would be fireworks and made my way down to Killick's Pub, a ramshackle fishing stage -turned pub by two brothers from Nova Scotia. It serves as the late night heart of the community where folks can bring their own drinks, kick back and have a yarn. They taped up the $500 of fire works they personally contributed to the community event then we all sloppily made our way to the rotten dock to set them off. I held the flashlight as we braved the windy night to set off the 50 fireworks. The dock's rotten beams bowed under our footsteps and it was a wonder nobody fell off or through to the cold water below. It was 12:30AM before I made it back to Mrs. Fudge's home but I had one hell of a memory I would not soon forget. The 6AM alarm would come all too early in a few hours but the experience was absolutely worth it.
1 Comment
Ed
8/12/2015 06:58:09 am
Excellent adventure ! A great place and a great report.
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Mike SaundersIn May 2014 I quit my job to ride a Honda Ruckus over 69'000 mi and counting. Wild camping most nights and cooking most of my own meals, I keep the costs low and the landscape changing. Archives
April 2018
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