"You rode 1300 miles for BBQ?!?" (2010)
I must begin this report by explaining my lust for Bessinger's BBQ. I have fond childhood memories of my Dad making BBQ Chicken on the grill. Just before being pulled, he would coat them with a yellowish sauce, sear em then serve them. I figured that was what everybody ate for BBQ sauce. This South Carolina "Low Country" Mustard Based BBQ sauce is not very common elsewhere and was an item acquired while living in Savannah, GA. For years, Bessinger's or Maurice's BBQ sauce has been my ultimate favorite.
This weekend, I decided it was time to pay the ONLY Bessinger's BBQ a visit. (Yes I know there is another one but it was built after a family strife and split...this one is the original Piggy Park)
I left work Friday headed for the Unwharrie National Forest south of Asheboro, NC. I slabbed over to Afton Mtn then rode 6 down to 29 and went south listening to Bluegrass and Blues through my droid phone.
I always get a kick outta the town of "Tightsqueeze" on 29 :rofl Wonder how much money gets spent here!!
Snapped this shot since Flutesong and 257Bob live in Reidsville :wave
I rolled down to the Pisgah Covered Bridge in the N.F. to find a couple having their picture taken with the bridge in the background. I was going to mention something about poor lighting etc but figured they could have their fun. Kept my darn mouth shut!
I didn't know where to camp. I had seen the $5 a night sites on the NF site but had only a rough idea where they were. I rode around for about an hour scouting out spots to string up but it was mostly farm fields and private land (not that it would stop me...just makes it covert)
I rolled up on this huge logging operation and rode down a logging road for a ways. Snapped this shot of the sunset sorta and decided to pitch my hammock. Not a few minutes later I hear dogs barking and a truck door slam. I'm outta here :pynd
Finally I wound up at a small campground West Mitchell Mountain or something (I forget) off hwy 180. It had 10 sites but there was NOBODY there! I had it all to myself :jump
I made half a packet of rice, had some of my remaining water, brushed my teeth and went to sleep around 9. I lay in the hammock and enjoyed the lack of people and the sounds of the woods. Ahhhhhh just how I like it. zzzzzzz
SATURDAY
I awoke at 4:30AM Saturday and immediately got the hammock and gear packed. I made some coffee and oatmeal and was on the road by 5:00AM. Rolling in the dark, the fog was heavy and speeds were kept relatively low. I passed through a number of small towns on my roundabout way down to Charleston, relying on the GPS's "AVOID HIGHWAYS" feature.
I was cruising down Highway 52 as the sun rose in brilliant reds and orange. It is going to be glorious day.
:wave NC ...Hello South Carolina.
(PS. I noticed my rear running filament is out - brake works. I replaced the blinking silly LED with a random one and didn't check. Good thing I have two aye :evil)
A raceway you say? Right off the road aye? What the hell! I've been to Danville, now on to Darlington. I have no interest in NASCAR but while I'm here, might as well :dunno
Next stop: UFO Welcome Center, Bowman, SC. I found this gem on Roadsideamerica.com (great site btw :thumb )
Down to 26 toward Charleston!
I got all Misty-Eyed:wink:
Got a call from Dad on 26. He suggested I visit this Mangolia Ridge Plantation just outside of town.
Damn thats old for America :deal
After riding around the Plantation grounds, I decided to forgo the walking tour fee and taking off my gear nonsense and get some GRUB!
WAHOO!!! I MADE IT! :clap :rayof :clap :tb
At about 10:30AM I was the first customer in the door.
I ordered the pulled pork BBQ, cornbread and a side of hash and rice (I hadn't tried it before and it had that mustard kick to it :thumb )
This reminded me of Greenflyfarmer's Ride Report title. This trip is just a prep run for my ride west. I did my valve adjustment last week so this was sorta a "test" ride :uhoh
Joe Bessinger was a colorful character to say the least...you can read up on him at their website.
After buying some sauce for pops, I was off to my favorite SC destination (next to bbq), The Angel Oak on St. John's Island. Truly a must see tree.
It is the oldest living Live Oak in the US at 1500+ years old, possibly the world. It has a circumference of 25.5ft!
Angels were holding the camera for this shot:wink:
After riding the sandy road :ricky out, I made my way into downtown Charleston.
Dude fishing on the side of the road. Good luck buddy!.
Here are few shots of the stately homes for which Charleston is well known.
My Dad would say "Son. This is where the poor people live":nod
I'll take a small cabin over this anyday :deal
I took some shots on Battery St. by Battery Park.
To the Confederate Defenders of Charleston
To the aspiring musicians of Charleston :super
So as if I wasn't hot enough sweating in my stich, enduring traffic through the heart of the city was the next on my agenda :augie I did get some nice shots.
This is what Charelston Row Homes are all about
Heck, they even have a painting of their street...on their street!
Couple shots rolling through downtown
The historic downtown market. Home of the Sweetgrass Baskets and such.
Urban renewal of this Cigar Factory into apartments for the rich folk.
How much for a tower room?
Then up and on to this beautiful suspension bridge.
Coming up on Georgetown. I could smell the distinct scent of a Paper Mill:puke2
Didn't check out the historic district but snapped a shot of this old church
Yikes! Beach traffic...lights every mile. Aw hell its hot, just roll with it.
Damn that water park looked enticing right about now.
I remember going to the Hard Rock Cafe here as a kid vacationing with a friend.
And the Planet Hollywood up the street.
And this closed club. Maybe Kryptonite was its nemesis? :hide
And for more beach vacation madness: Dolly Parton's Dixie Horse Show Money Pit
North Myrtle Beach...all of the same.
Eventually back on 17 headed out of SC and into NC.
Utoh...clouds looking unfriendly:uhoh
It started pouring rain. I turned into the first right hand parking lot and it was a Hardly Davidson dealer. Folks had their bikes parked under the awning and were inside watching me through the windows. I smugly roll up, remove my mesh gloves in favor of my BMW Atlantis II's , zip up my vents, and peace out. NO STEALERSHIPS FOR ME!!!:brow
The rain cleared about 10 mi up the road and I cruised north. Hey, a battleship...cool!
That would inflict some serious damage...
I then rolled up past Wilmington
Saw lots of these dead pines in the marsh...whats up with that!?
Gadget boy checks the radar vs his GPS :evil
Yeah stay the heck to my west and keep moving that way!
Passed through Jacksonville in the rain so no shots of the military base or many hotels, or Marines out on the town.
On toward my home for the night
Back on gravel :rayof at 60mph!
Africa or North Carolina? You decide :evil
This road leads to Great Lake in the Croatan NF.
Not much for camping up this way with the swamps and bugs so I worked back toward the pines.
Cue Leadbelly Song "In the Pines"
Black girl, black Girl, dont lie to me
Tell me where did you sleep last night?
In the pines, In the pines, Where the sun never shine
I shivered the whole night through.
My Husband was a Railroad man
Killed a mile and a half from here
His head, was found, In a drivers wheel
And his body hasn't never been found.
Black girl, black girl, where will you go
Im going where the cold wind blows
You called me weak, and you called me the most
You called rita, bring me back home.
Can o Vegetarian Beans for Supper. $.25 from the Sharp Shopper! (Yes I stocked up)
I was in the hammock by 7:45. I sweat and lay there enjoying the bug-free atmosphere as mosquitos and hornets (yeah mean f'ers) buzzed and slammed into the bug net. Locals would drive up the dead end Great Lake Rd, most not noticing my bike parked on the roadside with the Camo cover. On their return, they'd usually spot it and do a double take just as they were passing, spying the hammock in the tree. I swayed peacefully asleep to the sound of Owls, birds, crickets and rodents messin' around in the pines...I slept well and did not shiver one bit that night.
SUNDAY
I awoke at 4:00AM, packed up my gear and was riding by 4:30AM. I made my way back down the miles of gravel road in the dark and fog a little slower than when I came in. My morning goal was to make the 7AM Cedar Island to Ocracoke Ferry by 6AM to get in line before it embarks. It was dark most of the ride. The only excitement came when I knocked my phone mount and the phone popped out of its holder and dangled by the charging chord:eek1 :uhoh I quickly pulled over and put that puppy in their tightly. Don't want to drop that sucker on the highway.
I made the speedlimit through all the towns, noting the few cars on the roads were police officers at this time of the morning. A suspicious speeding motorcyclist is all the excuse they needed to write a citation. I kept my cool and made sure to gas up before I got to OBX (correctly guessing gas would be $.30/gal more expensive there). The road to Cedar Island is a fast straight causeway with water on all sides. The predawn sky was a light blue with tinges of orange beginning to form. There were no cars ahead of behind me so I lit the wick. A big smile from cheekpad to cheekpad as I hurdled at triple digit toward my ferry, 77F, humid, the naturally putrid scent of decaying swamp matter so foreign to my mountain valley senses...this is what riding is about. :ricky
I pulled up to the ferry in the "NO RESERVATIONS" line behind a family from Quebec. They were nice but said only two cars without reservations could load.
I set to make a cup of coffee. As soon as I had the stove out and water boiling, the car moved and the lady waved me on. Aw shucks! Threw out the hot water, put the stove away, geared up and paid my $10 to cross to OBX.
Lane four? Okay :D Front of my line.
Made my cup of coffee and had time to watch the sun rise on Pamlico Sound
All loaded and about to disembark. The crew chats amongst themselves. I have to wonder if they feel "stuck" with a job like this. Training to be Mariners and travelling only to be set with a back and forth ferry gig. Maybe they love it. I never asked.
My favorite shot of the trip...or month for that matter!
With a 2.5hr trip, they got the right idea!
Sweet 57' VW MicroBus. If I didn't have a bike, I'd get one of these. I may one day :dunno
Bought a cup of coffee inside the passengers area only to realize coffee was out. I found their stash and brewed another pot. I then took another "on the house" for my efforts. Screw em.
What a view to enjoy my coffee and take the time to relax and not GO GO GO!
They apparently monitor the water quality. Neat.
On to Ocracoke. Unfortunately, I accidentally deleted all my Ocracoke shots on the camera internal memory:doh But I checked out the lighthouse and saw some of the sights in town. I had a ferry to catch so had to make it quick. Most cars just made a B-line to the Hatteras Ferry. I stopped and waiting for the next one.
I stopped at the Pony Orchard.
Then went for a walk on the beach in my stich and riding boots. ATGATT...never know when disaster may strike...
Oh...I have 10 minutes to catch my ferry!:eek1 Straight shot up to the ferry and triple digits once more with plenty of sightline and room to pass :ricky Just barely made it!
Crew was late getting out anyway
Ferry passing the opposite direction.
Farthest south point of Hatteras Island
Hungry Rats of the Sky. I kept looking for the Johnathan Livingston Seagull with whom I associate most.
"For most gulls, it is not flying that matters, but eating. For this gull, though, it was not eating that mattered, but flight."
This little girl inspecting the boat.
I managed to make the first row of cars off the boat. Cya, on to the island.
Did I mention the mushrooms I took on the boat ride?
(just kidding:choppa)
No really...I took some caps on the ride over
(just kidding:uhoh ) My second UFO of the trip :scratch
Hatteras Light at its new home. The last time I saw it, it was being moved from its original location and was off limits due to structural integrity issues.
There was a family sitting beside this marsh. The mother was actively painting the scene.
It looked like this for about 70 miles. My real camera lens motor quit functioning so I took the rest with my droid.
Lifesaving Station at Chicamacomico (try saying that one three times fast)
Here they rescued these mariners
On through Kill Devil Hills, I stopped and picked up the NC12 OBX sticker for my side case and put it on alongside the SC Palmetto and Moon sticker. I'm a sticker whore but it reminds me where I've been, the empty space, where I'll go :norton
I stopped at Jockey's Ridge Sand Dunes
But didn't get out on the dunes. Stich and all...so here is a pic
Just imagine thats me...or not
They also have a hang gliding school here
And up to the first flight site.
After riding to Mile 0, I took 158? back to the mainland and up to VA
I beat feet up to 460 then rode south of the James to 95, up to Richmond to 64W then jumped off on 15 to Gordonsville and 33 back. Took a pit stop at Cabin BWDR for a chat and GS test ride :evil
I love that new 800, bet it rocks on the dirt. I'm still sticking with my 50k mi VStrom though :augie
Then home where the bike got a bath and I had my first shower in three days. That felt great!
Thanks for coming along! :wave Till next weekend ...keep on riding.