The activity on the water grew substantially as the 4th of July weekend blossomed. A forecast of 72 and sunny beckoned many blue-sky boaters to the mighty river. Keeping in the comfort of an island on the lee of the main channel helped make the morning enjoyable and slow. I sipped my coffee as the sun rose and watched the dragon's breath twist into tornadoes of fog rising in the brilliant sun. I exhale and notice my breath carry north on the south winds. Early morning fog may be my favorite. Soon, the lock and dam #7 appeared ahead and the spinning radar towers of a white tug signaled I had some time until that big-un was locked down river. 5, perhaps 10 luxury live-aboards and bow riders bobbed toward the entrance to the lock. LOCK JAM! I paddled among the expensive looking craft admiring the toned and glistening bodies tanning on the white foredecks. There are many distractions on the water and I consider these the finest of all. I struck up a few conversations with other boaters as we floated for 45 minutes waiting for the lock. Eventually, 10 or more pontoon boats headed out of the lock and soon the horn bellowed and the 20 or more craft slowly motored in. Typically it takes me 3 minutes from the time I enter a lock until it closes. The many inexperienced captains jockeyed positions and attempted to put their boats in line despite the current. Middle aged women with boathooks guarded the perimeter of their boats keeping them from bouncing into each other. Madness out here! I had to chuckle. Once most boats were in, I threw in some powerful strokes and was soon shown to the front left of the crowded lock. One whole 1000 ft wall was filled with boats on this, the busiest day of the year. The lock lowered and soon the wide gates swung open. At the toot of the horn, I found myself at the fore of thousands of horsepower chomping to be let free. PADDLE! I usually exit to the right of a lock or toward the shore to avoid dam turbulence. My position meant that I had to cross the lane of accelerating boats and watch for my own lane of boats behind. Naturally the throttles eased down and the wakes of pleasure yachts tossed me around then bounced off the concrete walls to return an equally tall wave from the other side. Waves went every which way but I just paddled hard and kept an eye behind me. Soon I reached the end of the concrete lock wall and rode the wake to safety of a bay. Phew! Once the madness subsided, I passed under the bridge and around the East channel toward LaCrosse. Many boats raced past and I grew accustomed to the wake and constant turbulence. At the confluence of the Black River, all hell broke loose. I lost count of the number of boats roaring past. Combined with the downstream flow, wing dams and narrow river, the chop was intense with 1-2 ft standing waves. The canoe would rise over and then crash bow first into the following wave. I could feel the hull flex as it came down. Coast Guard Auxiliary boats patrolled the busy harbor around River Fest's cacophony of country music, waving flags and one of those hydropower jet packs that shooting water from the boots. Watching a man fly around 50 feet in the air was interesting but my main concern was the Fountain cigarette racing boat slicing through the water with over 400 horsepower spinning the screws. Paddle on! Fortunately, the area here is a no wake zone so I kept at it and crossed the channel to the west shore. It was a rollicking time so when I finally reached the islands and wetlands area outside of town, I was spent. This would be a nice place to camp for the night. I made some beans and eggs (yeah...avoid this tent) then lay down for some well earned rest. The buzz of insects was quite loud and the croak of frogs bellowed across the open grassland. The occasional boom and pattern of firecrackers carried from town. A ski boat loaded with 30-somethings raced past playing "Zombie" by the Cranberries. The unlikely tune blasted down the river and could be hears fading into the distance. Did you know the doppler effect is rather pronounced on the chorus? ZOM-BIE-uh-e-uh-e-uh. Dark came soon and with it the fireworks display towards town. I'd nearly fall asleep when the flash and boom would stir me. Luckily I had a good view from my tent and could doze back off. I was so tired I didn't have much care for the display. A good night's sleep indeed.