Embracing the park, I explored around for nearly two weeks visiting many campsites and taking in all the diverse and massive park had to offer. Maybe not all...but certainly some. Down on the Rio Grande near the south-eastern portion of the park exists a number of hot water seeps into the river. These geothermal springs range from natural horizontal slits in the mud to established concrete pools with structure. The most popular is just 6mi or so from Rio Grande Village. Once an established resort on the river, today the remnants of an office/store and rooms of a motel are all that remain. The view of the river and surrounding hills still unchanged. Following the cliffside along a 1/4mi trail brings me to a concrete tub filled with sand and algae and a soothing warm heat radiating. A tub full of Austin firemen who just finished a Canyoneering expedition in the Santa Elena Canyon country. A lone traveler I met briefly at the ranger station swims across to the far bank and back, an action punishable by hefty fine. "It ain't illegal if you don't get caught!" Mexcians cross the river illegally to sell walking sticks and metal artwork along many of the trails near Boquillas. The same items are for sale in the park too for about twice the price. The cross-border activity is overlooked by the CBP unless incidents of stealing from campers or crime occurs, in which case they confiscate the items and monitor the border closely. I would later find what I like to call the "hidden hot springs" near my camp for the following couple of evenings. The weather guessers had threatened rain and cool northern winds but the days remained mostly sunny and shower-free. I had finally found the old man-made hot spring kept up by locals who frequent the park. What a joy it was relaxing in solitude on the early mornings as the sun rose above canyon cliffs above me.
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The least visited National Park in the country sits down along 118mi of the Rio Grande river and covers nearly one million acres of Chihuahuan desert. An arid landscape revealing a diversity of microclimates and vegetation meets me as I wind my way around the park. Following Ara's advice, I navigate down the gravel Old Maverick Rd past Luna's Jacal. The small structure is built into the boulder on the north side of a mesa by the banks of a dry creek. Old Luna raised nearly 50 kids and lived in this small ocotillo and ponderosa pine roofed abode. In the distance, a narrow gouge cuts deep into the mountain where the powerful waters of the Rio Grande have carved a notch through solid rock. Santa Elena Canyon offers a steep hiking trail into the cool shade of the soaring walls to mesas above. Carrizo cane grows down along the river banks and prickly pear cactus up higher. From here I explored over to Castalon, an old US outpost for monitoring the border and any unrest around the turn of the century. Old equipment rusting in the sunshine contrasts nicely against the bright blue desert sky. The backcountry camping permit is secured and I make my way over to Buenos Aires overlooking the dense vegetation of the Rio Grande. The following day the little bike climbed over 2000' to Sotol Vista, a promontory overlooking the western side of the park. Despite the constant uphill struggle, the small machine chugged along at 12mph or so up the grade to a lunch break and time to cool.
I'm alive!
I've been backcountry camping in Big Bend NP for the last week. I took a break yesterday to visit with Ara and Spirit at The Oasis. A wonderful visit. Riding back into the park for another week or so of camping in the warm winter desert. Pics to come down the line. |
Mike SaundersIn May 2014 I quit my job to ride a Honda Ruckus over 69'000 mi and counting. Wild camping most nights and cooking most of my own meals, I keep the costs low and the landscape changing. Archives
April 2018
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