Packed and on the road in the cloudy environment of a mild morning. The green waters of the Rio Grande lazily slide south along the vegetated banks making a soft gurgling sound.
River Rd undulates significantly with the elevations and steep cliffs along the Rio Grande. This area is rich in geologic history and action between limestone deposits, sandstone and amazing destructive volcanic activity. A brief hike into Closed Canyon revealed a beautiful narrow slot canyon, it's walls etched with evidence of the fluvial erosion and destruction by wind.
The day was overcast, gloomy and grey as I cruised around the north side of the border stopping often for pictures and vistas. I took my time, relaxed and smiled at my surrounding landscape. Just another Monday, quickly becoming one of my favorite days.
I continued on to Presedio, TX for gas and groceries. The town felt very much like a slice of Mexico. Small concrete structures and others made of plywood survived in the dry desert landscape. Exposed rebar exited from the walls of incomplete concrete structures beside trailers in various states of neglect. In comparison to towns such as Marfa and Alpine, Presidio looks to have had a rough go at it.
I'm back in Terlingua this morning basking in glorious sunshine. The Big Bend National Park lays before me and I am happy to explore some nooks and crannies of this immense space before the upcoming winter storm this weekend pushes me to a lower elevation. I'll be in touch ;)
The old mining town of Terlingua was established in the late 19th century after the discovery of cinnabar in the region, an ore utilized in the production of quiksilver, or mercury. The small historic townsite exists on a hillside overlooking the Big Bend NP to the east. Old stone and adobe structures stand in various states of disrepair from time and the elements. A stop at the Front Porch and then onward to a stealth camping spot just out of town and a beautiful southern sunset over Mexico and the Rio Grande.
I have been following the travels and musings of Ara G. for many years on his website (www.theoasisofmysoul.com). The story of his wanderings and philosophy is complex and stems from experiences in his life alongside the loss of family members. Surprisingly, he offered me a visit to his private space in the desert known only as "The Oasis". I met him and Spirit, his rescued Pit Bull, then followed "Old Faithful" his BMW GS Sidecar Rig onward down the caliche and along a trail meandering through creosote bushes. It was interesting hearing of his travel experiences, the reverence he has for undisturbed and spaces, an avoidance of cities, all very familiar. Sharing stories and sunshine in this desert space was a valuable rest along my travels in southern Texas. It was a time I will not soon forget.
In May 2014 I quit my job to ride a Honda Ruckus over 69'000 mi and counting. Wild camping most nights and cooking most of my own meals, I keep the costs low and the landscape changing.