I arrived at Deadhorse Camp alongside Kendall C. and his Triumph Tiger 800. None of the doors had markings or signs to distinguish an entrance. Shortly, a man emerged and beckoned us inside. The warmth and shelter were a welcome surprise after such a difficult day. Kendall had a reservation for the night and each room came with two single beds. "Would you two like to share a room to cut rates in half?", asked the staff. I looked at Kendall's smile as he assessed me and the situation at hand. "After what we both went through crossing Atigun Pass today in the snow, I'd offer you a bed in my room." I was ecstatic. The kindness of strangers on motorcycles continues to amaze me. The first order of business however was dinner. The glorious buffet lasted only 15 more minutes and the chef beckoned us to chow down. I piled my plate high with salmon, rice, pasta, cornbread and more. The bountiful feast before me seemed unreal. My frozen boots and wet pants slowly warmed in the cafeteria as I enjoyed a meal with my new and much appreciated friend.

"Mike? You made it!!!" I looked up to see a jubilant Clare inch through the cramped cafeteria to give me a hug. Sam smiled from the table and rose to shake my hand. "I'm happy you two are okay!" I replied. They explained that they arrived the day prior and had wet but not nearly as snowy conditions for their 240mi push. I introduced them and Charles to Ken and proceeded to devour my plate, returning for seconds.

We sat and recounted each others stories over coffee. It meant so much to know these fellow riders had also endured the same crucible, albeit at a quicker pace and with heated gear, yet arrived safely. Kendall went down twice on the ice at Atigun Pass but fortunately was unscathed. A passing truck stopped and helped him right the heavy Tiger. Our conversation drifted to the Arctic Ocean tour and expedition shuttle that takes tourists on a sightseeing trip around the Prudhoe Bay Oilfield. The stop along the Arctic Ocean is the only way to actually set foot into the polluted body of water. Claire presented me with a small piece of driftwood. "Here take this little piece of the Arctic with you". I held the Y-shaped piece in my palm. It meant so much more after this day. It snuck safely into my breast pocket beside the gold cross from Kim V. and my passport.



Well fed and warming, it was time to pay for the extravagant meal. I was ready to pick up Ken's tab when he handed the clerk his credit card and paid for, not only the room, but also my meal! I was speechless. No matter of money pushing or protest would be accepted. He wished to treat me, the idiot who rode there on a scooter. I felt guilty and humbled all at once. We both fought the weather that day yet deep in his heart he held the capacity to care and be generous to me, a complete stranger. That day, Ken changed my life. I would be sure to pass it forward in the future whenever possible. Wow.

I unloaded some gear and quickly made my way to the showers. Steaming hot water thawed my weary bones. I moaned in absolute elation and release while my skin changed color back to normal as blood began to flow more freely to the whitened extremities. I savored the heat until it hurt then towelled off and retired to the single bed. Ken and I shared a few stories and events before fatigue overtook me. "I feel like I've been running on adrenaline for hours and it finally ran out" said Ken shortly before drifting off to sleep. Rainstreaks patterned the glass and ticked off the metal roof. I was safe, warm and dry. I had survived the trip from Coldfoot to the Arctic. I had achieved my "goal" to ride to Prudhoe Bay. A well earned smile stretched across my face and I fell fast asleep.

A cool rain fell on me as I cruised away from the vehicle laden roads of Fairbanks into the quiet mountains. The Elliot Hwy turns in Livengood toward Manley Hot Springs and I continue north to the Dalton Hwy.

I would grow very familiar with the mud shown in this picture. The rain fell throughout the day as I worked my way up to Coldfoot. I picked my line around puddles and slippery ruts created by the heavy loads hauled north to Prudhoe Bay.

I came across a man towing a handcart and gave him a granola bar. He was from Japan and didn't speak English very well.

On the return trip I learned his name was Cho and he began in Dawson City Mile 0 of the Alaska Hwy in April and is slowly approaching his goal of Prudhoe by September. What an amazing feat!

I camped at Marion Creek CG in Coldfoot as a cool rain fell. It was 11PM before I turned in for the night but of course the sky was still bright.

The following morning greeted me with more rain. The surrounding mountains now sported a dusting of white snow which I knew would soon be all around me as I climbed in elevation.

It began to snow in large white flake yet I motored up the rises and past the timberline. The majestic peaks of the Brooks Range soared overhead, their dark rocks contrasting against the virgin snow.

Soon the snow accumulations were becoming alarming. I could no longer feel my fingers in the wet gloves and my toes were becoming numb. I have four extra pairs of gloves which are much warmer but naturally I'm saving them for worse conditions. I am always sure things will get worse before they get better.

Trucks appeared in the distance high up into the mountains. A passing RV flagged me down to warn of ice ahead. "I'll go as far as I can" I murmured in my helmet. Tense muscles and shaking legs made me ache all over. I passed Chandler Camp of the Alaska Hwy Dept where snow fell heavier and the wind began to howl. Arctic cold cut right through my GoreTex and wool layers making me shiver uncontrollably. I would later learn that temps were 24F when I was riding through and gusts up to 30mph. Truckers in t-shirts emerged from their heated oasis to put on snow chains. I motored past pushing with my feet when the scooter slid sideways on the snow.

I finally came to a parking area and what appeared to be a steep grade downhill. "yeehaw!" I screamed , then paused...I didn't know if I could make it back up the other side. The internal struggle between safety and turning around or following my dreams and heart forward into the frozen unknown was quick. I've come this far...I'll drag the damn bike up the hill tomorrow if I have to. Deadhorse or bust! The downhill grade sloped and made for port traction in the ice. I kept an eye out in my mirrors for any trucks barreling down behind but none came. The vista was breathtaking and soon the road surface improved after a grader swept the gravel clean.

I could see the road sloping downhill into a white snow storm and knew I was done with the worst of it. Little did I know the hardest part was yet to come. Cold winds blew a wet snow on my visor and upper body limiting visibility and lowering core temperature. Slippery road conditions were made worse by the use of Calcium Carbonate as a solidifying agent. Ice formed around my riding gloves from the wind.

The construction zone's 30 minute wait allowed time to chat with the sign man who offered me a shack for windbreak while I scarfed down a granola bar and stamped frozen boots to the ground. I was waved to follow the pilot truck 15mi trough the zone. Not 5 minutes into my slow struggle up the first rise, all 4 of my fuel bottles came dislodged and clanged out into the mud before the following semi trailer. Fortunately he swerved and I raced back to retrieve the precious fuel to carry me through to Deadhorse.

The remainder of the day was spent shivering and riding. The song lyrics "Keep that hand on the plow hold on!" Reverberated in my head until I was singing and whimpering all at once into the Arctic wind. I could only see 300ft in any direction and the sky was a bright white. The miles ticked down as I drew closer to Deadhorse. Unlike a motorcycle where the miles roughly equate to minutes @60mph, I had to double them and then some to figure out my distance. By the end of the construction I had 125mi to Deadhorse, or 6 hrs at my daily avg of 20mpg. It was going to be a cold and difficult day. The afternoon dragged on and I forced myself to eat a banana an granola bar for heat. I also had to refuel the Ruck twice. Numb fingers clumsily fumbled the fuel bottle caps and failed to properly zipper close Velcro. In time I would ask for spiritual guidance and cry out to my mother for help. That was a first. It was a pitiful spectacle of near death conditions while I kept the throttle pinned. After may hours of thought and overcoming emotions repeatedly, the tower of Deadhorse Airport and an oil rig shone ahead. The horizon along Prudhoe Bay had a golden hue to it and the slightest blue shone distant beyond the haze. It took an additional 20min to arrive which felt like a lifetime to my racked body and brain. No matter what a room cost, I was staying indoors tonight. Industrial equipment was in all directions and the hum of diesel generators hummed the camp a pitiful lullaby.. This truly was hell frozen over.

The morning came with sprinkles and a steady drizzle as I loaded up the Ruckus. Paint still stuck to my hair and beard after my day of painting and cleaning Phil's place in preparation for a Realator visit today.

Last night we dined on Alaskan Hallibut that Phil caught in Valdez last season. The Guiness Beer Batter was delicious and he really know how to host a guest!

So with a belly full of fish and a warm heart from hospitality beyond my imagination, I set out to Deadhorse, the farthest N one can ride in the US. My first stop tonight is Coldfoot, roughly half way there. I aim to motor out in the rain from Coldfoot tomorrow with my sights set on Prudhoe Bay down the Haul Road. This often muddy and hilly roller coaster of a road is the home of monstrous semis hauling equipment to the oilfelds. They own this road and I know it. I will feel like a small life boat in a sea of sharks as I stay to the right and dodge the muck and truck.

This destination has existed for years in my imagination and I slowly aim to realize my goal: VA>FL>AK.

Fingers crossed!

On Wednesday morning I suited up and headed out into the bunky morning weather for the respite of College Coffee in Fairbanks. At the intersection of University and College St, this hip coffee house attracted UAF professors and local intellectuals alike. Folks chatted about curriculum and analytical concepts as I sipped on coffee. I me taken Ken S. outside Lowes the day prior and he suggested I stop in for the morning coffee club of motorcyclists. He soon showed up along with the founder of the BMW shop in town. I fielded a number of questions from the seasoned travelers and spent the morning chatting with Ken and friends. Around 9:30, Richard M. ( blog.machida.us ) showed up on his blue and white Ural Patrol in a bright hiviz Roadcrafter Lite. We introduced ourselves and I was surprised to learn he is familiar with Chris and Dom's blog - having hosted both of them as they toured through Alaska! No wonder his name looked familiar. I had a swell time chatting with them and sharing experiences in motorcycling and travels north to Prudhoe Bay on the haul road. Around lunch time we stood in the drying parking lot and chatted some more, UDF in full swing, and set out into the day.

Richard was kind enough to include an entry about me on his wonderful blog. I consider it a n honor to have met these fine gentleman and sincerely look forward to an opportunity to have lunch when I swing back through Fairbanks next week. You meet the nicest people on a Honda indeed!

I woke up this morning to a rain falling on my Sierra Designs Vapor Light 1 tent.  Mosquitoes were buzzing already, trapped in between the rain fly and my glorious bug net.  The sun had been up for hours but I stayed warm and dry under the cover of my sleeping bag.  I dosed in bed until 9AM then pulled out the wonderful book Beyond the Horizon  and read 20 or 30 pages before the rain finally quit falling.  I donned my headnet, packed my gear and set out into the thick swampy wood to retrieve my bear bag tied high in a tree.  The Chenai Hot Springs Rec Area lies along a beautiful but swampy and buggy river.  I scarfed down my yogurt and cereal before hopping on the Ruckus and heading back for Fairbanks.  Today's plan was to spoon on a new rear tire from Northern Power Sports and see about fixing my front rack's broken welds.  I cruised in to town, stopped for water and some nuts at Lowes before heading over to get my tire.  Three KTM 690's I had seen in my trip north were parked out front and I introduced myself to Sam and Clare of http://www.chasinghorizons.co.uk/   .  Check out their amazing trip and stories. 

They were truly wonderful folks and I enjoyed the short time spent with them. Clare even assisted me as I spooned on my tire for the second time. Her fabulous stories and sense of humor may have distracted me while putting it on backward the first time. Who knows. 

The shop suggested I visit Interior Welding a block down the road for my broken front rack. The 10lb in fuel strapped to the inadequate rack finally applied their weight somewhere in the Yukon cracking both welds.  The guys at Interior Welding really know their stuff and were able to help weld it much stronger than new in 20 or 30 minutes then spray it with a coat of black to keep from rusting.  I had been debating getting this fixed for a while since removing the rack involves taking off the battery box and disconnecting all the lights.  Now I am very happy I did. NO MORE SQUEAK.

I stopped in at the library for some wifi, water and to cook lunch on the picnic table.  My damp sleeping bag got the sun it needed and I was happy as a clam.  A text from Phil informed me he would be getting in to town tonight (He forgot about the day's difference in HI) so now I have somewhere to sleep other than the buggy and free swamps of the Chenai Rec Area.  I'm looking forward to catching up with him tonight and tomorrow as we repaint part of his house.  He lives in North Pole so I'm going to be sure to stop at the Santa Claus House and take a pic with the 50ft Santa.


On Thursday I aim for Deadhorse and will camp somewhere near Coldfoot the first night.  The ride to Prudhoe Bay is one for the record books as far as I'm concerned.  On the return, the Manley Hot Springs will make for a welcome side trip to soothe my aching back and tailbone after miles of rutted and rocky roads.  The semi trucks should be interesting.

You meet the nicest Athabascans on a Honda! Leskasaki and the two others whose names I won't disrespect with poor spelling told me a bit about the north, Deadhorse and Barrow. Great folks!!!

While charging my new battery outside the walmart for 2 hours I struck up a conversation. I will post some pages from my journal here which I keep updated daily. Please excuse my fast and sloppy handwriting.

It was a very moving moment. My hat's off to you sir.

I spoke with my fiend Phil who is in HI until Wed so he suggested I visit with his XO, Chris. I called him up and was invited over for a salmon bake last night. I rode over 200mi at 30 mph stopping a total of 30 minute over 8 hrs to arrive just in time for dinner. I wolfed it down and enjoyed their great company before crashing out on their couch. What a day! Today I hope to get a new tire, fresh battery and change my oil. I hope to find a welding shop to fix my broken rack.

I stopped my first night in AK at the Deadman Lake CG. Expecting a $ site, they were free and I chose site 4 nestled along the beautiful lake shore. Loons floated across the water and fish broke the surface to snag dinner.

I met my neighbors Robert and Sheila who hail from Helena. They sold their house and are now traveling by RV through AK. He offered me a cider and I gladly accepted it and the warm conversation through the night.

The following day I decided to stay and relax after 10 days of solid riding and no rest. I read the great book Dave gave me and helped Bill ( From PA) and Rob clean 21 pike they caught! We had a feast before the sky opened up and we huddled under the awning.

Fresh blueberries blanketed the taiga floor. I picked many and made blueberry pancakes for bfast.

A bald eagle rooster while I read on the dock.

With a soul full of emotion I pumped my fist in the air as I crossed the international border into Alaska, USA. After over 9500 mi, I have arrived!

I made a cold morning ride into Kluane Nat Park and ran into Dr Oakley - Yukon Wildlife Vet from Nat Geo Wild and her crew at a gas station. We chatted for a bit and they loved my trip.

Kluane Nat Park is an amazing place with 19000+ ft mtns and surging glaciers that, unlike most in N America, are actively growing. Supplied by the cool moist air of the Pacific, this majestic landscape leaves much opportunity for exploration. I will certainly be back there on my way south. Weather was cloudy and cool or I would have taken a pic of the great peaks in the distance.

The past two days have been filled with 250-300mi slogs interspersed with gas stops and great distances between. I'm enjoying the incredible scenery and warm travelers I've met on the road.

I've been stopping at the many rest stops to make coffee, oatmeal and pancakes inthe mornings. Lunch has mostly been soups and rices. The almonds and peanut butter I picked up in Prince George goes great with Bananas on a wrap for a quick snack. The few restaurants are quite pricey ($13.99 for soup and fresh bread) plus I'd rather be outside! The weather is wonderful with cool nights in the 50's and days in the low 70's. I'm sleeping well in my one man tent and can set up/take down my camp in under 10 min.

The Mosquitos up here are incredible and bothersome. In less than a minute after stopping, I'm swarmed by the vampire insects. My musk oil and head net helps the best and I stay covered all the time.

The Yukon Motel and Wildlife Museum were quite busy today. Travelers in RV's and motorcycles spoke in English, French, German and other languages basking in the warm parking lot.

While charging my chatterbox, an R9T pulled in with Virginia tags! We chatted for a while and it turns out he is from Alexnadia and woks at the Patent Office! Small world! I gave him Matt's adv handle in case he wants to try a homebrew or wrench around.

I've travelled over 500mi of the Alcan in two days to Watson Lake. Today alone I've seen countless Moose, Grizzly Bear, Caribou, bighorn sheep and Wood Bison. I swam in the relaxing Liars Hot Springs and spent hours battling a 25mph headwind keeping my speed below 30. Road conditions are bumpy and my headlight brackets cracked weld squeaks incessantly.

I've made it up to Ft. Nelson after 200 miles of riding today. The wearer has been pleasant and in the 70s-80s depending on elevation. Yesterday I travelled for hours through the smoke of western wildfire which blocked out the sun. It was like an apocalyptic experience between that and the massive oil and as trucks whizzing past at twice my speed.

Followin in the footsteps of the US Army's corridor to protect Alaska. 1523 mi to Fairbanks :)

Followin in the footsteps of the US Army's corridor to protect Alaska. 1523 mi to Fairbanks :)

Followin in the footsteps of the US Army's corridor to protect Alaska. 1523 mi to Fairbanks :)

"It would be like going from DC to Denver CO with no maps"

"It would be like going from DC to Denver CO with no maps"

Followin in the footsteps of the US Army's corridor to protect Alaska. 1523 mi to Fairbanks :)

The trip through Glacier NP was astounding. The amazing landscape and beautiful roads were mesmerizing.

I've had a hard time finding the service and time to stop and update my blog here (sorry!!). Riding is such a pleasure and lifestyle now that taking time not to realize my goals of Alaska and beyond seems wasted. I'm really enjoying life on the road and in BC. I've seen Moose, Elk, Deer, Grizzly Bear, Black Bear and many other wildlife on my travels.

Speaking of which, I left the states a few days ago and have worked my way up to Chetwynd BC - chainsaw carving capital of Canada. I stayed the nigh in Prince George with some fabulous hosts. Davin and Joan(sp) were kind enough to put me up for the night and offer to join them for the World Cup! I'm not a big soccer fan but couldn't turn down my new hosts and their great conversation!

Here are a few shots of my amazing travels through the Icefields Parkway and glacially carved mountain ranges between Banff and Jasper

Here are a few shots of my amazing travels through the Icefields Parkway and glacially carved mountain ranges between Banff and Jasper

The feeling one gets when inside a grand cathedral is indescribable.

The beautiful clouds drew me from bed early. I sipped coffee as the sun rose and eventually got out into the garden. I weed whacked an area, raked it and planted thousands of wildflower seeds then covered them with gardening soil and mulch. They are in the sun so I watered them and raked it in.

Following the garden work I did some Moto maint and then built a stand for the drill press I assembled. Good day!

I was somewhat worried about the variator and sliders after shearing the towers on my last variator in CO.

Fortunately mine is looking great!!!

We drove up to Lincoln for their small town parade. It was about ten times longer than the Rimini parade and full of antique cars and veterans. One float was handing out Bud Light while another had Busch.

Afterward we went to John's family cabin for a BBQ in the shade of mighty Ponderosas.

We had a delicious breakfast burrito breakfast then loaded up the car and went down to the old gold mining town of Rimini for their annual parade. Situated in a forest canyon, the small town of 30 people or so came out to celebrate on mobility scooters, 4x4's, and a 57' Thunderbird that has been in the family since new. The dirt road parade got started after noon and I sat on the tailgate of the XTerra, PBR in hand, watching 50+ "Rockettes" twirl their batons and dance to "These boots were made for walking".

Later that evening we were invited to the Clausen Ranch in Baxendale for a BBQ and fireworks. The Zinn Ranch across the street puts on a 30 minute $10-20k fireworks show that was phenomenal. The explosions echo through the narrow valley as the sky illuminated in greens, blues and reds.

My best pics are on a real camera so it'll be a while till I divulge them. This Saturday we are heading to Lincoln for another parade and family BBQ. I'm looking forward to meeting new people and eating delicious smoked meat. 'Murica

I'm taking a few days to relax and rest with my aunt and uncle in Helena. This small city has a unique western feel and charm. It may be the capitol but it certainly has the "smallest" feel of any capitol city I've visited. I'm looking forward to mountain biking some of their trails and enjoying the holiday festivities in small towns tomorrow .

This evening we all went up to the old Gold Mining town of Marysville(pop 80) for dinner. The small local saloon had amazing ribeyes and I enjoyed a beer and burger. We were treated to a hail storm following our meal - the first of my travels.

I'm planning to come back here on my way out of town for some better pics - stay tuned :)

I departed Pine Creek as the trails and parking lots had filled with tourists and children. It was after noon and I stopped in Livingston for lunch and to charge my camera batteries. Unfortunately I made it 30min up the road before realizing and had to backtrack down a mountain pass. I got all the "missed pics" on my return trip.