I was invited to stay the night with Zac Kurylyk, a Canadian motorcycle journalist and we sat at his kitchen table with maps and Internet comparing photos, routes and stories of riding in Canada. He had a charming family and a home right on the river with two trees perfectly spaced for my hammock. The sound of the government ferry rumbling back and forth in the night was somehow soothing when accompanied by the lapping waves. In the morning after a delicious breakfast prepared by his wife, I said my goodbyes and set out via a modified route south of St. John following ATV trails and gravel roads.
Riding through downtown was a bit slow and hilly so I quickly escaped the city for a route north along the Fundy coastline. The rural route dipped into coves with a rocky and bold coastline receding to tidal marshes pungent with the smell of wet sea plants, protein rich mud and expiring fish. The smell of the coast. I was surprised at the quality of scenery in NB, reminding me more of the mountains of the southeast than the coast of Maine. Quaint villages such as St. Martin's and Hampton exemplify the charm and history of the old coast from the 17th century to today.
I secured La Tortuga with soggy ratchet straps in the damp and fishy hold of the Fundy Rose and seated myself in a wicker chair on the aft deck. Tanning in the clear summer day, I watched the Digby Harbour and eventually the coastline of Nova Scotia grow smaller beyond the white frothy wake. No whales spotted on this crossing but I did enjoy the informative free lectures on Fundy presented by a naturalist from the St.John museum.
I sat on the starboard deck e njoying a cup of coffee , bemused by the menonite mother beside me shielding the sun from her cell phone. These are modern times indeed. The familiar fuel tank farm signals the entrance to St. John. Each tank is painted with tall bold letters spelling out IRVING, the principal family and company responsible for the economy in New Brunswick. I am to learn they own many gas stations, timber plantations, media companies and paper mills throughout the province.
The crossing was calm and the weather just perfect. I slowly roll our of the opened mouth of the Fundy Rose and on to a new province.
After three weeks exploring and relaxing in "Canada's Ocean Playground" I'm excited to head west on the Digby - St. John ferry to New Brunswick. A big thank you to Eric for giving me a tour of the capitol city and to my aunt and uncle for allowing me to cool my jets here in Sandy Cove. The road calls, time to spin my wheels.
In May 2014 I quit my job to ride a Honda Ruckus over 69'000 mi and counting. Wild camping most nights and cooking most of my own meals, I keep the costs low and the landscape changing.