Rounding a bend, the azure waters of the Sea of Cortez washed over the tan desert under a baby blue sky. Abrupt volcanic peaks ringing the Bay of Los Angeles form a natural amphitheater to this critical spawning habitat for whale sharks, turtes and whales. The town appeared unchanged since my previous visit two years prior. Running into the van folk at Dos Pinos Cafe de Mariscos, they had just wrapped up dinner and drinks and were heading for Playa La Gringa on the north end of the bay, the end of the road. I borrowed the wifi password to restore my phone then set off toward the free beach. The paved road fizzled out and became rocky riding up toward the hillside where "Welcome La Gringa" was written in white painted rocks. A few other RV's were positioned on the sandy crescent shaped beach. A striking view of the nearby mountains reflected off the calm water where brown pelicans floated past and the depths beneath teaming with sealife. Although the water was in the 50's, I took a short swim in the salty water, admittedly mostly for bathing purposes than pleasure. The cold immediately took my breath away but was equally invigorating. Two traveling Vanagon couples I met were great company on the cool beach. Out in their wetsuits, through snorkels they say rays, baby shark, many fish, abalone and scallops. Sipping a cold beer on the beach beside a campfire surrounded by laughter, my head tips back to the sky where a dazzling spectacle of the heavens sparkles in the clear Baja air.
You can follow Mak and Owen on their great website and instagram: