Galveston was once the largest city in Texas. It's location as a port along the Gulf of Mexico acted as a doorway for German, Czech, Russian, West Indian and Africans through the quarantine stations similar to Ellis Island. The island served as a melting pot for various cultures sharing foodways, spices, and traditions. The pinnacle of the city's growth and prominence came in the late 19th century after the establishment of railroads into the interior spurred further economic development. The diverse history of the characters in this city are as colorful as their brightly painted homes. I was immediately taken by the architecture which reminded me of Charelston, SC with it's regal Victorian homes, Georgian Revival and charming cottages built on raised stilt platforms. In September of 1900, the most devastating natural disaster in US history occured when Galveston was decimated by a powerful Hurricane. Only 1/3 of the structures on the island were left standing, schooners lay scuttled in the streets, their masts looking like power poles in a black and white exhibit in the Rosenberg Library Exhibit. The stories of survival and loss are a timeless reflection of the human experience during any natural disaster. Eerily similar to similar tales elsewhere during Hurricane Ike or Katrina. When the storm cleared, over 6000 men, women and children perished. Teams of men were encouraged, then forced by gunpoint, to collect the bodies for mass burial at sea. Their recompense for such a grisly task was a tin cup beside an open barrel of whiskey beside the pier. As a result of this devastating event, the government of the city changed and citizens slowly rebuilt after agreeing to build a seawall (pictured below) and raise the height of the city by 15 feet or more, filling in much of the land with sand dredged from the Gulf of Mexico.Gal While cruising through the historic district, the colorful antique artwork of the Star Drug Store caught my eye. I'm a sucker for alleyways as well and pulled in for a quick shot. The owner of an adjacent business came out to drop some trash off and struck up a conversation with me about the history of this alley. The drug store was built in 1886 and has survived in this same location through countless storms and a fire to remain one of the oldest continually operational drug stores in Texas. During the time of prohibition, illegal liquor was passed through a connecting walkway to the adjacent building then handed through a notch cut into the brick. An 80 year old inscription in the red brick reads "Night Owl Hang Out". In August up in Hyder, AK, I met Jay Smith at the bear viewing center on Fish Creek. He was riding a GS throughout North America following an early retirement and had covered the same number of miles as me since May. We shared stories briefly and connected later on facebook. I noticed he was flying in to Houston recently so we agreed to meet for lunch at Shrimp-N-Stuff on 23d St in downtown Galveston for lunch. The popcorn shrimp poboy was delicious and it was great to share conversations and stories with Jay. Keep on enjoying life and living the dream my friend! After lunch, the day was growing short so I headed for the Bolivar Island free ferry. The ferry attendant waved me aside and inspected my fuel can. "You cannot have an empty fuel can, it must be filled at least half way with water." In my experience on over 30 ferries in the US, Canada and Mexico, I have never heard of such a silly rule. An empty canister under 12gal is usually okay with the USCG...but clearly not this woman. I pulled over and began to pour my nalgene bottle into the container. She screamed across the pavement "You cannot do that on the ferry landing". I pushed it onward a few more feet to an apartment complex, still in view, filled it and then was waved aboard just as the ferry loaded. Phew. On the plus side, I now have a rinsed out spare fuel can!St The afternoon was spent fighting a headwind and spitting sky blown from the Gulf of Mexico over Hwy 87. I turned inland and found myself in the small I-10 town of Winnie, TX just as the sky grew dark. I inflated my air mattress under a picnic pavilion in the City Park and settled in for a clammy and damp night of intense fog swirling through the air and peppering my face with droplets.
Louisiana here I come... The dense fog along the Gulf this past week has been pretty thick at times, the upside being balmy conditions much warmer than areas north of here. Walking along the beach, it is easy to imagine that all that exists is that within the bubble of sightline, as though the world has faded away to be replaced by this monotone environment. Walking down along the roaring surf at night, I stare into the darkness of the sea, the familiar scent of salt in the air again, each wave briefly illuminated by the high pressure sodium streetlight.
Happy March to all my friends in the frozen north! Just a reminder that spring is right around the corner :) I have had the wonderful opportunity to stay in a family friend's beach cottage on stilts SW of Galveston in Jamaica Beach, TX. The weather was cool, humid and windy for the last couple of days so it has been a fine refuge to organize gear, repack things and do a load of laundry. The beach is within walking distance and the tumultuous winter sea has taken a toll on the beach since I've arrived. My friend Matt flew on down to escape the frozen tundra that has become Virginia, taking a few days away from work to escape on the beach. The weather has been cool but we've made the most of it by exploring the coastal wetlands and preserves through the marshes beyond barrier islands. I cooked up some ribs and the following day tried some of Leon's smoked brisket from Galveston. TO-DIE-FOR. With a few more things to knock out on my list for the Ruckus, I'll keep busy this afternoon and have her ready to ride tomorrow (Monday) when I'll begin working my way toward the green swamps and coastal bayous of Louisiana. |
Mike SaundersIn May 2014 I quit my job to ride a Honda Ruckus over 69'000 mi and counting. Wild camping most nights and cooking most of my own meals, I keep the costs low and the landscape changing. Archives
April 2018
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