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69'000 miles on a      Honda Ruckus named
La Tortuga

Deadhorse via The Dalton Hwy

7/30/2014

8 Comments

 

A cool rain fell on me as I cruised away from the vehicle laden roads of Fairbanks into the quiet mountains. The Elliot Hwy turns in Livengood toward Manley Hot Springs and I continue north to the Dalton Hwy.

Picture

I would grow very familiar with the mud shown in this picture. The rain fell throughout the day as I worked my way up to Coldfoot. I picked my line around puddles and slippery ruts created by the heavy loads hauled north to Prudhoe Bay.

Picture
Some blue sky! Temps in the low 40s

I came across a man towing a handcart and gave him a granola bar. He was from Japan and didn't speak English very well.

Picture

On the return trip I learned his name was Cho and he began in Dawson City Mile 0 of the Alaska Hwy in April and is slowly approaching his goal of Prudhoe by September. What an amazing feat!

Picture
Pic from return visit - gave him Ramen and Garlic
Picture
Picture

I camped at Marion Creek CG in Coldfoot as a cool rain fell. It was 11PM before I turned in for the night but of course the sky was still bright.

Picture

The following morning greeted me with more rain. The surrounding mountains now sported a dusting of white snow which I knew would soon be all around me as I climbed in elevation.

Picture

It began to snow in large white flake yet I motored up the rises and past the timberline. The majestic peaks of the Brooks Range soared overhead, their dark rocks contrasting against the virgin snow.

Picture

Soon the snow accumulations were becoming alarming. I could no longer feel my fingers in the wet gloves and my toes were becoming numb. I have four extra pairs of gloves which are much warmer but naturally I'm saving them for worse conditions. I am always sure things will get worse before they get better.

Picture

Trucks appeared in the distance high up into the mountains. A passing RV flagged me down to warn of ice ahead. "I'll go as far as I can" I murmured in my helmet. Tense muscles and shaking legs made me ache all over. I passed Chandler Camp of the Alaska Hwy Dept where snow fell heavier and the wind began to howl. Arctic cold cut right through my GoreTex and wool layers making me shiver uncontrollably. I would later learn that temps were 24F when I was riding through and gusts up to 30mph. Truckers in t-shirts emerged from their heated oasis to put on snow chains. I motored past pushing with my feet when the scooter slid sideways on the snow.

Picture
Atigun Pass - 4800Ft - Highest Point on Haul Road

I finally came to a parking area and what appeared to be a steep grade downhill. "yeehaw!" I screamed , then paused...I didn't know if I could make it back up the other side. The internal struggle between safety and turning around or following my dreams and heart forward into the frozen unknown was quick. I've come this far...I'll drag the damn bike up the hill tomorrow if I have to. Deadhorse or bust! The downhill grade sloped and made for port traction in the ice. I kept an eye out in my mirrors for any trucks barreling down behind but none came. The vista was breathtaking and soon the road surface improved after a grader swept the gravel clean.

Picture
Atigun Pass heading down the North Slope

I could see the road sloping downhill into a white snow storm and knew I was done with the worst of it. Little did I know the hardest part was yet to come. Cold winds blew a wet snow on my visor and upper body limiting visibility and lowering core temperature. Slippery road conditions were made worse by the use of Calcium Carbonate as a solidifying agent. Ice formed around my riding gloves from the wind.

The construction zone's 30 minute wait allowed time to chat with the sign man who offered me a shack for windbreak while I scarfed down a granola bar and stamped frozen boots to the ground. I was waved to follow the pilot truck 15mi trough the zone. Not 5 minutes into my slow struggle up the first rise, all 4 of my fuel bottles came dislodged and clanged out into the mud before the following semi trailer. Fortunately he swerved and I raced back to retrieve the precious fuel to carry me through to Deadhorse.

The remainder of the day was spent shivering and riding. The song lyrics "Keep that hand on the plow hold on!" Reverberated in my head until I was singing and whimpering all at once into the Arctic wind. I could only see 300ft in any direction and the sky was a bright white. The miles ticked down as I drew closer to Deadhorse. Unlike a motorcycle where the miles roughly equate to minutes @60mph, I had to double them and then some to figure out my distance. By the end of the construction I had 125mi to Deadhorse, or 6 hrs at my daily avg of 20mpg. It was going to be a cold and difficult day. The afternoon dragged on and I forced myself to eat a banana an granola bar for heat. I also had to refuel the Ruck twice. Numb fingers clumsily fumbled the fuel bottle caps and failed to properly zipper close Velcro. In time I would ask for spiritual guidance and cry out to my mother for help. That was a first. It was a pitiful spectacle of near death conditions while I kept the throttle pinned. After may hours of thought and overcoming emotions repeatedly, the tower of Deadhorse Airport and an oil rig shone ahead. The horizon along Prudhoe Bay had a golden hue to it and the slightest blue shone distant beyond the haze. It took an additional 20min to arrive which felt like a lifetime to my racked body and brain. No matter what a room cost, I was staying indoors tonight. Industrial equipment was in all directions and the hum of diesel generators hummed the camp a pitiful lullaby.. This truly was hell frozen over.

Picture
Deadhorse Camp beside the Chasing Horizon's bikes!
8 Comments
Don & Tracy
7/29/2014 01:30:09 am

WOW ... Mike ..
So glad you are OK...
That sure sounds like one heck of a ride on the Ruck to Dead Horse!
But YOU made IT !!! Yee Haw !!
GO Mike Go !!!!

Reply
David Masse link
7/29/2014 05:00:58 am

I guess they call it Deadhorse for a reason.

Mike that is an amazing account of a very, very dangerous ride. Frostbite and hypothermia are unforgiving.

And it's July for heaven's sake.

Please don't linger in Prudhoe. As the summer solstice recedes, it's only getting colder up there with each passing day. I'm sure you know that. But a reminder could do no harm.

The photos you took: damn fine.

Good luck, ride safe.

I can't remember if you have any Gerbings gear. The Ruckus can probably handle at least gloves. Order a pair and have them sent to you before the return trip. Or ship the Ruckus south a ways and hop a truck or something.

Reply
Mike Saunders
7/29/2014 05:28:06 am

Thanks David. I rode it back to Fairbanks where the weather is sunny and warm today. I do have Gerbings gloves with me but was too stubborn and cautious to use them on the first day in fear it would be worse on the return. Next installment coming soon!

Reply
ridin
7/29/2014 08:09:56 am

god DAMN. My favorite report of all so far...what an adventure, what misery. I hope against hope some of that bourbon is still left for ya. Hang in there...

...and there's no question which is the studliest vehicle in that last pic!!

Reply
dom link
7/29/2014 09:25:12 am

Great writeup, I think I'll stick to three wheels when on snow and ice though.....at least with three, there's some leeway when the motorcycling gods decide to frown upon one's ride. Glad you made it to Deadhorse safely.....

Reply
mica
7/29/2014 01:23:28 pm

Awesome Mike!!

Reply
John
8/17/2014 07:31:09 am

MIke, I just came across your blog about your Ruckus adventure. I also own a Ruckus with plans to do the haul road next year. I live in Anchorage Alaska and wish I would've known you were in the area earlier. I would've have taken you out for lunch or dinner and we have plenty of room where you could've spent the night. I was wondering if you could tell me the name of your windscreen and where you ordered it from. Take care.

Reply
Mike Saunders
8/17/2014 08:03:17 am

Bummer I missed you. It is a generic Spitfire windshield and mounts easily on stock bars. It can be removed with two thumb screws for warmer days or off-road riding. Send me an email if you have any questions or want details of my setup.

Reply



Leave a Reply.

    Where is Mike?

    Mike Saunders

    In May 2014 I quit my job to ride a Honda Ruckus over 69'000 mi and counting. Wild camping most nights and cooking most of my own meals, I keep the costs low and the landscape changing. 

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  • Scoot
  • Paddle
  • Pedal
  • Moto
    • The South >
      • Merchant's Millpond State Park, NC
      • BRP and a visit to Charlotte, NC
      • South Carolina and Back on my GS (2011)
      • Jaw-ja Trip #1 - Visiting my Nephew
      • Jaw-ja Trip #2 - Cousin's Wedding
      • "You rode 1300 miles for BBQ?!?" (2010)
    • Canada (eh) >
      • 2012 - Beards to Canada >
        • Day 1: Arlington, VA > Arlington, VT
        • Day 1-2 (Continued) Back to VA!!!
        • Day 3: Newburyport, NH > Sandy Cove, NS
        • Day 4: Loafing around "The Neck"
        • Day 5: Sandy Cove, NS to Antigonish, NS
        • Day 6: Antigonish, NS to Meat Cove, NS
        • Day 7: Meat Cove, NS to Port Aux Basques, NFL
        • Day 8: Port Aux Basques to Port Saunders
        • Day 9: Port Saunders to Big Brook
        • Day 10: Big Brook, NL to Trans Lab Hwy
        • Day 11: Trans Lab Hwy to Pinware River
        • Day 12: Pinware River, LAB to Norris Point, NL
        • Day 13: Norris Point to Blue Beach
        • Day 14: Blue Beach, NL to Port Aux Basques Ferry
        • Day 15: Sydney, NS to Sandy Cove, NS
        • Day 16: Chillin on the Digby Neck
        • Day 17: Sandy Cove, NS to No. Sandwich, NH
        • Day 18: Sandiwch, NH to Arlington, VA (Home)
      • Algonquin Park 2013 >
        • Day 1: Home to New York
        • Day 2: Chataugay State Forest to Brent, ON
        • Day 3: Brent, ON to Nipissing River Portage at Nadine Lake
        • Day 4: Nipissing River @ Nadine Lake Portage to first island in Red Pine Bay
        • Day 5: Red Pine Bay to Hogan’s Lake
        • Day 6: Hogan’s Lake to Catfish Lake
        • Day 7: Catfish Lake to Cedar Lake to Fredonia, NY
        • Day 8: Fredonia, NY to Brookville, PA
        • Day 9: Brookville, PA to Alexandria, VA
      • Think I'll ride to Montreal this weekend...
      • Ontario on a Whim
    • Maryland >
      • How to Hit a Tree, By ME!
      • Ruckus Stealth Camping in MD
      • Ruck'n around Southern MD
      • White's Ferry and some Maryland Backroads
      • 1000mi right near da' beach (2010)
    • New York >
      • Cornell, Niagara Falls and PA Coal Country (2012)
      • Finger Lakes trip to NY (2011)
      • New York City Trip (2011)
    • Pennsylvania >
      • Early Spring in PA
      • Michaux Camping
      • From a Wedding to "Where-da-fugawi?"
      • Pennsylvania Leaf Peeping (2012)
      • First Big Trip to PA (2010)
    • Virginia >
      • From the Mountains to the Sea in Ol' Virginny'
      • What the Fog? (Northern Neck, VA - 2013)
      • Uncle Bucks Ride to Eat and Snowy SNP
      • Charlottesville Area Ride
      • Serious Helmet Time in VA (2011)
      • Ruck'n Across Virginia (2010)
      • Impromptu Camping with 'DC Rider' (2010)
    • West Virginia >
      • Rella-Vous and Skippii Rescue
      • New River Gorge Ghost Town Exploration (2011)
      • Five States from Laurel Fork (Spring 2013)
      • A Little Dirt, A Little Clouds, A lotta Fun, WV (2012)
      • GS and an NSX? (2012)
      • Seneca Rocks Camping Two-Up (2011)
      • Panniers Only Club at Seneca Rocks, WV (2010)
      • Laurel Fork Fall 2010 on the Honda Ruckus 50cc (2010)
      • Dog Days Rally and Rella's Gift (2010)
      • Pops and Richmonders in WV (2010)
      • Rocket Boys (2010)
      • New River Gorge and Rella's (2010)
    • Cross Country 2009 >
      • Trip Preparation
      • Day 1: (Sept 3, 2010)
      • Day 2: (Sept 4, 2010)
      • Day 3: (Sept 5, 2010)
      • Day 4: (Sept 6, 2010)
      • Day 5: (Sept 7, 2010)
      • Day 6: (Sept 8, 2010)
      • Day 7: (Sept 9, 2010)
      • Day 8: (Sept 10, 2010)
      • Day 9: (Sept 11, 2010)
      • Day 10: (Sept 12, 2010)
      • Day 11: (Sept 13, 2010)
      • Day 12: (Sept 14, 2010)
      • Day 13: (Sept 15, 2010)
      • Day 14: (Sept 16, 2010)
      • Day 15: (Sept 17, 2010)
      • Day 16: (Sept 18, 2010)
      • Day 17: (Sept 19, 2010)
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